Life from the ashes.
So last weekend we made the most of the Easter break... Friday with the Lees, climbing the 1000 steps in Ferntree Gully and then rewarding ourselves with a nice dinner. Saturday at my sister's wedding which, as you can imagine, was an event and a half. And Sunday with the extended family, who had come together for the wedding for the first time in about 15 years (It's not that we don't like each other, we just don't happen to all get together at the same time very much).
So we also wanted to make the most of Monday, and after a tip-off from a fellow geocacher, we were encouraged to go and visit Marysville... post the fires which tore the town apart.
I was a bit unsure about going. It felt morbid to go and 'tour' the devastation. I didn't know how welcome it would be, how confronting it would feel, or what one should 'do' there - But since the locals were encouraging people back, we decided to suck it up and go...
So slowly we made our way out there. At a quick cache stop near Healesville we got our first vision of the fire damage - With the forest destroyed right down to shoreline of the local reservoir, and dangerously, frighteningly close to Healesville. Then the drive through the Black Spur showed painfully how bad they'd been. The forest entirely blackened and thinned out. Amazingly, there were still idyllic patches of green here and there, but wherever you looked, it was clear the fire had taken its toll.... It was awful...
But that was until we passed through Narbethong and the turnoff to Marysville, and saw what the real devastation was..
God's Hoover...Beyond the turnoff, I'd never imagined how bad it could be. It wasn't that everything was burnt and blackened. It's simply that there was nothing there. All one could see, for miles, was red dirt and black trunks. That's it. Nothing else. Everything else looked like it had just been sucked up by a gian vacuum cleaner... Not a scrap of grass or shrubbery or weed. We even looked for a charming little cottage we'd played with the idea of buying when we saw it for sale on that road - We couldn't even find where it had been. It had just vaporised in the flames. One can only imagine how fierce such a fire must be to simply wipe a landscape clean...
What was here again?...
On arriving in Marysville.. well, the real toll became clear. You realise how little you pay attention to the everyday things in a town until they're gone, and you drive down a street, with nothing but rubble and ash on either side, and try and remember what was there. We drove past some accommodation we'd stayed at less than a year ago to find simply nothing but a pile of sheet metal and stone. The Cumberland, where we'd spent many conferences, was a blackened shell. The stores we'd frequented, gutted at best, but most completely gone... Surreal.
Discretion...
Yet amongst all of that, the ludricousness of the discretionary nature of fire stood. The odd house, in perfect condition amidst a blackened forest. A shop destroyed, but it's fence and signpost untouched, still welcoming people to the store. A Christmas banner on a street post still recalling a time now lost in the past. And the shop's bakery, now it's only remaining operating store, standing beautifully and untouched when all around it had fallen. What had allowed the fire to leave this standing?
The ludicrousness of it all continued as you drove around the town, with, naturally, fireplaces standing firm, often bizarrely, as in one case where the wood fired oven, obviously from a second floor kitchen, now stood forelonely 12 feet about the ground amidst a broken mess.
Resilience
Yet, the town survives. On that day, the town was bustling and felt strangely festive. The bakery was doing a roaring trade, and they were happy to see people back and giving to the community. Locals acted as volunteers, showing people what still existed and encouraging them to look around (whilst also giving some guidance about the privacy they still required), and showing photos of the devastation in areas we still couldn't go. They didn't shy away from what had happened, but showed that they could overcome. As we looked at the photos of the destroyed
Stevensons' falls, the volunteers comment was simply "It burned down in the 1930s too, and we rebuilt then. We wil again." And the local art gallery, while burnt down, was still open, as people wandered around the now blackened outdoor gallery/garden, now speaking a very different message with stone sculptures amidst the destruction...
And then, to almost symbolise the town's unbroken spirit, we checked on a cache we'd found there a year or so ago. It was in the centre of town, attached to something large and wooden. I'd given up hope of it. But amazingly, miraculously, it was there. Perfect and pristine.... That spoke to me strongly, as that cache's log had become a bit of a empathy space for the geocaching community to mourn Marysville - and now it speaks of its survival and future..
We're glad we went.
If you're a local, we encourage you to go, reflect, respect, support....